trinityamps.com

Hi,

I have been wanting to build a lower watt Hiwatt for a while, and the Triwatt is exactly what I am looking for......

What does the kit go for? Is it possible to get a custom kit sans chassis? Also, can I get both trannies as stand up versions?

I've built a few 50 watt Hiwatt clones, and could really use something in the 25 watt range. I'd like to use a Hiwatt sized chassis that I have, and mount it in my Swanson 2-12 cab that currently houses my JP504 (the original Triwatt! )......

Thanks!

http://www.trinityamps.com/Product_Parts.htm
viewtopic.php?t=1516


Stew

Thanks Stoo! Somehow, in my excitement, I missed the kits section!

...and you wouldnt want to miss viewtopic.php?t=1567

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Stephen
Web: www.trinityamps.com. Facebook: facebook.com/trinityamps. Twitter: @trinityamps

Tripower, great to see you again! It would be a real honour to have you build one of our Triwatts! I like your idea of building a Triwatt into a regular Hiwatt chassis, and with your Hiwatt building experience, you would have no problems doing that. You may need to think about the front panel, since we have the Dave Gilmour style three input jacks, and we also have the extra Overdrive control, like the 1980s Biacrown era Lead models. So you may need to do a custom panel for yourself there, as our standard front panel is for a smaller form factor. I'm sure if you talk to Stephen off-line, he could price you a kit without the chassis and front panel.

You'll be glad to know that our transformers use Partridge's design and 50W physical format. So they're both stand-up. Check out the links that have been posted, for depscription and pictures, if you haven't already. With the Triwatt, we mount the OT along its side edge, to elimenate hum from the PT, whereas original Hiwatt amps had both mounted along their side edge.

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Great tones come in small glass jars!

...not to mention, your experience with HIWATT tone would get us even more feedback on the design...

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Stephen
Web: www.trinityamps.com. Facebook: facebook.com/trinityamps. Twitter: @trinityamps

I've already gone the custom faceplate route a few times, so that's no issue. The biggest issue is the extra OD knob on the front. I'd either have to use the incremental power switch, and use the current power indicator light hole for the extra pot, or eliminate the linked input, and use my Y cord like I do with my 2 holer DR504. Nothing that can't be worked out though!

The bigger chassis will be nice. Even with the 50 watter's separate power section tag board, there is a ton of room in there. I gig with my JP (with an attenuator), and I almost always use a red box to put my guitar in the FOH/monitor mix. On my JP, I hardwired a gutted red box into the chassis. It works great, and eliminates a lot of clutter and busy work during setup and takedown. Just plug an xlr into the back of the amp and go to the board. I would likely be doing this, as well as adding an effects loop to this one. Power scaling might be a consideration as well.

My Marwatt is built on a standard 18 watt chassis, and it's so much tighter than the Hiwatt sized.

I really like the idea of a pedal switched overdrive circuit.

Let me figure out how to divert the necessary funds, and I'll be all over this thing! I try to build one amp a year, and I was going to do a 6V6 Plexi or a Deluxe this year (for something different), but this Triwatt is too good to miss out on.

It's funny, I probably never would have noticed this amp if it wasn't named Triwatt!

I have an old imp box ( which is i think the same as your red-box) I've never figured out what the point of it is. Can you give me some insight as to what you do with it?

If that's the H&K Redbox I'm thinking of, I believe that's an active speaker level to line/mic level direct box with a speaker cab simulator circuit of some sort, so speaker out to line or mic level input devices. The IMP boxes (Whirlwind?) are a variety of different level/impedance matching boxes for many different level problems and some grounding issues. I don't believe they did speaker cab emulation in the IMP's, just level matching AFAIK, but I may be wrong. These are generally passive devices.

Joe G

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Some assembly required,
Brain sold separately...

Yeah, the Red Box has a decent cab emulator built in. It sounds a LOT better than sending a line level signal direct to the board, great even. Combine with an attenuator, it gives me complete and independant control of FOH and stage volume..

I've been using one since I started gigging, usually from the line out of whatever amp I'm using. The one I installed in the JP works on phantom power too, so no need for a 9vdc adapter either. I mounted the board in the chassis and hard wired it to the line out coming off the OT. I am amazed at how well it worked and is so convenient to set up. Now, all I need to do is build the Ultimate Attenuator into that amp, and I'll have the perfect grab and go gig rig!

It sounds good, great even, through the PA and monitors.....

Yes, I figured you'd be cool with the custom faceplate. Thinking about it, I reckon your best bet would be to use the incremental power switch, which is a standard feature of the Triwatt, and then shift all the pots along to the right by one hole, so there's room for both the OD knob and the Link input.

_________________
Great tones come in small glass jars!

I too have been using a H&K redbox III to route my guitar through the pa system for nearly 4 years. Sounds fine to me!

AJC

Behringer, also makes something similar, and sometimes I've thought about trying one. But at the moment, I just like to stick a mic in front of the vintage Celestions I use, although I really doubt that the audience would care either way.

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Great tones come in small glass jars!

Miking is the best, as long as you have time to eq the room, eliminate feedback and stuff.... We usually only use the instruments through the board to balance out the sound and for monitoring, so the RB works great for this. If I were relying on the PA to carry the bulk of my tone to the audience, I'd probably mike it, although the RB is pretty good.

The tone with the red box is not exactly like the cab, but it's certainly good enough for a balancing FOH fill. FWIW, I found that the "combo" setting on the RB sounds a lot crisper with my Hiwatts than the "4-12" setting.

So basically you use it to make your big amp a preamp of sorts before it hits the soundboard?

Then you attenuate your cab and keep it at personal monitor levels?

isn't this like what van halen used to tour with?

I may be way off here. Sorry I'm such a newbie.

zaphod




Please don't go the Behringer way. Had 1, I got for my son. Broke.
Tried to get the part. It was terrible. 1 module would have fixed it. They wouldn't budge.
I hate to bust on people. But, it would have been so easy to resolve.
Later

Oh, if you'd like to send those vintage Celestions over for a test ride, no [problem

+1 on the Behringer stuff. Wine, maybe... music gear, nah!
Cheap copies of good companies equipment Just pay the difference!

Joe G

_________________
Some assembly required,
Brain sold separately...

So they say. But some of their stuff works pretty good. I have a bass preamp/EQ pedal of theirs that I've been gigging with for a couple of years, and never had any problems.

_________________
Great tones come in small glass jars!

It can be used like that, but usually the amp is loud enough to fill most of the room, and we put a little bit of the guitars in the FOH mix, with each panned to the side we're standing on.

Once the signal is in the board, we have a lot of flexibility depending on the room, stage setup etc. We usually add a little bit to the FOH, and feed the monitors for the guys in back when they can't hear us up front.

I'd love to halve my pedalboard, crank my Hiwatt up and ride the guitar volume like Pete T. did, but that is not reality. We play fairly small rooms (less than 200 people mostly) and volume is a huge issue. Having complete control over the volume, without compromising (too much) on the tone, is awesome......