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PostPosted: Mon Sep 18, 2006 7:30 pm 
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I just ordered one of each, and I'll install whichever Coco suggests. Hopefully he's at the post office shipping my third transformer. :)


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PostPosted: Tue Sep 19, 2006 6:36 am 
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That's what came with my kit. The schematic says 470uF/63V for C10 and the layout says 47uF/50V. I probably should order a replacement anyway, so which should it be? Or doesn't it matter if it's polarized the right direction? :oops:


Both work fine. But you are correct, the schemo says 470, the layo 47. :oops: I send 470 with the kits.

470 uf rolls off low the end at 3 hz, 47 uf 30 hz.

All electrolytic cap positive ends need to point away from the ground bar. That is correct on the layout.

Your board should look very much [if not exactly] like this one.

Trinity sIII Board - Top View. Right Click to Save to you Computer

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Trinity sIII Board - Bottom View. Right Click to Save to you Computer

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PostPosted: Tue Sep 26, 2006 6:37 pm 
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Got transformer #3. Replaced the 470u power supply cap int the right polarity and installed the new output transformer. Tested with all tubes out, and all of the test points measure at around 410 volts or 0 volts. Put tubes in, attached to speaker, switched on for two seconds, no audio when I touch the jack. Switch unit back off.

I'll hunt for shorts and cold solder joints tonight. Any other suggestions or things to check while testing?

Any California-based builders that are feeling charitable? "Please sir, I've smoked two output transformers."


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PostPosted: Tue Sep 26, 2006 7:10 pm 
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I'm in Fresno, but as you can see from my thread in the Lightning section, I can't get a break with mine either.


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PostPosted: Tue Sep 26, 2006 8:07 pm 
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Location: Richmond, VA USA
Check out "http://www.paulrubyamps.com/info.html#FirstPowerUp". I did at least half of what he recommended. I had already resolved any issues with my heater wiring (you'll have what appears to be a short if using a 6.3V lamp and it is installed) and what appeared to be a short in my impedence selector once the OT was connected (found the answer to this one on 18watt.com). I am very new to this stuff and managed to get through it. I completed a sIII yesterday and already love it. The sIII is my second build but first one to work.
ko


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PostPosted: Tue Sep 26, 2006 8:38 pm 
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coco wrote:
Fully Disconnect the OT primaries & secondaries and measure the resistance on the primary from each side. Measure the reistance on the secondary from common to each lead. Note all the values. If any are zero, it's toast.


Stephen, how do I know which is secondary and which is primary? Primary goes to jacks, or secondary goes to the jacks?


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PostPosted: Tue Sep 26, 2006 8:43 pm 
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The primary is the input, the secondary is the output. In this case the primary of the OT is the Brown and Blue wires. The secondary are the wires going to the impendence selector/speakers.

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PostPosted: Tue Sep 26, 2006 9:07 pm 
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Stephen, how do I know which is secondary and which is primary? Primary goes to jacks, or secondary goes to the jacks?


rjgtr is correct, but check out the transformer wiring.

http://www.trinityamps.com/ForumGallery ... ormers.pdf

ahh, but you're building a 15 right? Different schematic. The output leads are the Orange, Green, Blue , Black. The rest are the primaries. you do have a schematic for the tranny correct?

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PostPosted: Tue Sep 26, 2006 9:45 pm 
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synthetic,

check the wiring of the power tubes. I cant tell but check to see that pins 3 on V4 & V5 are tied together and pins 9 as well.

Also, how do you know the signal is getting through the impedance selector? i.e. the switch is wired correctly?

I had suggested you hook an output jack up directly to one tap (8 ohm) of the OT to be sure i.e. bypass the switch. I think you should still do this.

Also, can you send me a good full size pic of the chassis focusing on the tubes to board connections?

I'll call you.

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PostPosted: Tue Sep 26, 2006 9:50 pm 
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Yeah, I'm working on the 15 (Lightning). I know how to set my meter to test resistence from resistors - will I be using this setting to test resistence on the OT?

Will you let me know if my understanding of this is correct?

I'll have the ground prong of the meter on the ground wire from the tranny. The hot prong will test the green orange and blue wires.

After that, I'll have the ground prong touching which wire? The ground wire again? And the hot prong will be testing the red, white, and yellow wires.


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PostPosted: Tue Sep 26, 2006 9:51 pm 
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I don't know why my OT would be burned, but I want to test anyway.


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PostPosted: Tue Sep 26, 2006 11:18 pm 
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synthetic,

Perhaps take a look at joe's amp for build comparisons:

Full Size http://www.trinityamps.com/ForumGallery ... nUnder.jpg

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PostPosted: Wed Sep 27, 2006 12:17 am 
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I just went through the entire circuit, checking continuity between turrets, tubes and pots. Everything looks good. I carefully checked my board against the scans you posted, and they match. I'll post super-high-res photos in a bit.


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PostPosted: Wed Sep 27, 2006 12:29 am 
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Here you go, extremely-high-resolution photos of my amp build (all ~1MB):

http://www.jefflaity.com/misc_pix/amp2/amp2_wide.jpg
http://www.jefflaity.com/misc_pix/amp2/amp2_board.jpg
http://www.jefflaity.com/misc_pix/amp2/ ... rtubes.jpg


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PostPosted: Wed Sep 27, 2006 1:53 am 
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Well, since the line test seemed to work, I plugged in a guitar. I seem to have a working amp. Everything is there except for the high input of the 18W channel. I checked continuity from the tip of the jack to the tube input and it shorts, so there must be a bad connection somewhere.

I'm so gun-shy at this point, I'm keep expecting it to blow. But maybe I'm finally through the fire. No hum or squeal, either, even turned up to 10. When I turn down the volume of my Strat it's very quiet.

I haven't had much of a chance to open it up yet, but it sounds very good so far. I had it plugged into a BBQ attenuator (turned almost all the way off) to get some distortion out of it. I think I'll do some of the higher gain mods to the TMB channel, as I expected more distortion. (I'm playing a Strat with single coils, which doesn't help.)

I'll work on the bad input tomorrow, and check out some of the TMB mods. Thanks everyone for your help. :D Image Image


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PostPosted: Wed Sep 27, 2006 6:54 am 
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:D Super-Good news.

Steady as she goes synthetic. If it's working now. it will carry on.

I'd play for awhile before modding anything.

With all the inputs working, jump the channels.

For more distortion or do a small mod on V2 cathode for a bit more gain/crunch.

Keep us posted.

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PostPosted: Wed Sep 27, 2006 3:21 pm 
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synthetic wrote:
Well, since the line test seemed to work, I plugged in a guitar. I seem to have a working amp. Everything is there except for the high input of the 18W channel. I checked continuity from the tip of the jack to the tube input and it shorts, so there must be a bad connection somewhere.




GOOD JOB!


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PostPosted: Wed Sep 27, 2006 3:41 pm 
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Check out the Cliff Jacks Pics in this document and compare yours to them.

http://www.trinityamps.com/ForumGallery ... dePics.pdf

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PostPosted: Wed Sep 27, 2006 6:57 pm 
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I figured I would just compare the working one to the non-working one.


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PostPosted: Wed Sep 27, 2006 8:05 pm 
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Well, that works too! :)

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