trinityamps.com

ok, so i got some time off to finish my cab, all mahogany again, back mounted baffle(1/2 marine ply as well as back) one old no name alnico and one seventy/80 and its sounding very good, cant wait to try out some other speakers(got an hellatone h-30 in the 1x12 but too loud to fit with the others)


someone heard back from steamco here in canada ? wgs reffered me to them for their speakers but they dont mail back ?!?

btw, coco, i removed thermal paste from the VVR module and its cleaner now, i also found that my power bar ground wasnt properly grounded

ill play it as is for a while, then ill see if something else need to be done.


....and sound clips in a while, im buying the stuff slowly to try to keep costs down...

Really nice job on the cabs. Particularily like the grain on the head front face and your joints look very good.

Congrats on your gear. Tone Tubbys are available here!

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Stephen
Web: www.trinityamps.com. Facebook: facebook.com/trinityamps. Twitter: @trinityamps

tone tubbys....but they cost so much id be tempted to smoke them

Ceramics are affordably priced @ $140 and the new 25W San Rafael is $110. It's their answer to the greenback.

Yes, the Alnico is expensive @ $300 but same price range as the Celestion Blue, Heritage series etc.

The upside to the Alnico is it makes most amps sound better! There is one exception to that. John Harrison, who owns Tone Tubby & also owns a Trinity sIII, says the sIII makes his speakers sound better!

_________________
Stephen
Web: www.trinityamps.com. Facebook: facebook.com/trinityamps. Twitter: @trinityamps

Beautiful build there! I'm kind of late here but... Lee Valley sell leather trunk handles with brass fittings that may be of interest.

http://www.leevalley.com/home/Search.aspx?c=&action=n

Also Q Components in Kitchener ON carry a lot of cabinent hardware, grillcloth and are the Canadian Eminence distributor. You can download their catalogue here.

http://www.loudspeakers.ca/products.htm

Take care
dave

ok, i had time to revisit my amp.

bought some more speakers to test with(g12h30, g12t75, greenback, seventy/80, old jensen alnico)

i still got the flab even when going super low on the cathode bypass caps.(been down to 25uf) be it power or pre.

and lately im getting harsh distortion at hi gain/volume, kind of like crossover distortion. could it be related to the VVr unit ?

i tried many differents preamp tubes, some el-84 too, i havent tried changing the rect. yet

its now my only amp(beside the traynor that i dont use) and i would really like to make it work for me now...

btw, im back to stock on the caps....didnt help much. its like the bass it at a too low frequency


i really want to get rid of that flabby/farty bass and damn shrillness now.

im open to suggestions and the iron is hot

here are my voltages;

V1
pin1; 151.5
pin3; .85
pin6; 151.5
pin8; .83

V2
pin1; 170
pin3; 1.45
pin6; 255
pin8; 170

V3
pin1; 207
pin2; 49.5
pin3; 70.5
pin6; 202.5
pin7; 48.5
pin8; 70.5

V4/5
pin3; 10.5
pin7; 331.5 and 329.5
pin9; 320

recto
pin1; 305
pin3; 345
pin7; 305

on 123.5 wall volts
420vdc witout bottles and 345 with

does something here point some bad ? dont think so but who knows ?

oh, and 3.28 on all heaters

Heaters should have 6.3 V AC between pins - remeasure please. Voltages all look good.

VVR shouldnt cause this. When it's on max, the voltage are fine.

The Normal channel is bassy & bright like a plexi. Is that the problem channel? The TMB channel should be fine with stock values.

_________________
Stephen
Web: www.trinityamps.com. Facebook: facebook.com/trinityamps. Twitter: @trinityamps

Using a huge cathode cap on the EL84s, in the 1000uF to 2200uF range, can really tighten up the bass, reduce roughness in distortion, and make the amp a little stiffer like a real Plexi. It does this by reducing bias voltage fluctuation at the EL84 cathodes. If you still get the crossover distortion effect, you might need to install Paul Ruby's well-known 18W buzz mod - http://www.18watt.com/modules.php?name= ... it&lid=125

Awesome cabs BTW!

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Great tones come in small glass jars!

its the TMB channel that is too bassy, like if the bass was at 40hz , way out of guitar range...i did try it with my bass and it seems to work
...albeit my speakers dont like it much...even with guitar
the first channel is okay, but i get the frizz on it too when dimming volume. but bass is okay there.

i aslo had a look at other schematics, and ill try 1uf pré bypass caps to see if its preamp related.

also, if i try some 1000uf or higher cap in the power, shall i strap some smaller cap across it to help highs pass thru ?



oops, i mesured heaters from ground

i swear ill get it where i want, its such a good base, and im starting to feel more and more confident about my capacity to identify wich part does what
ill get back to you, and surely record some clips when i get here, as i bought almost all that was on my GAS list for it

to get rid of the hi end on the Normal channel, you can remove the 500 pf cap on the Vol control.

_________________
Stephen
Web: www.trinityamps.com. Facebook: facebook.com/trinityamps. Twitter: @trinityamps

small update, i put a 2.2uf cap across r9, and changed r29 to 100k

now the boost switch i a little less subtle and i get better high end(more presence and a little more gain)


coco, would it be possible for me to order some more parts from you, like carbon comps resistors and some caps ?
ill mod the heck out of it until i find what im searshing for
learning at the same time, then maybe i could build something else when i get back to work(money if scarce theses days)

I think the idea with this type of amp is that you jumper both channels together and blend in more of the bright channel and less of the dark channel, to get the less bassy tone you're looking for.

Some people do like to do it that way, as the high frequency response of a big electrolytic cap is generally pretty poor.

_________________
Great tones come in small glass jars!

im using an a/b/y box for channel duties. can coax great tones, would just like to zero in some greater tones and get the bass useable with all my guitars, with singles coils its almost right, but i cant use my hmb guitars.
p90 is key tho, those pickups and this kind of frive are a match made in heaven

also, im compiling what i need part wise, so ill get back to you soon coco

Change the mid cap in the TMB tone stack from 0.022uF to 0.01uF, and solder a 1M resistor across theend lugs of the bass pot. That should help zero in things a lot better.

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Great tones come in small glass jars!

nice to know, ill give it a try this w-e

elegy- any updates? Did you get rid of the harshness/flab? Try the 1000-2000uF?

I am also jealous of your woodworking abilities... :D

zaphod- by upping the coupling cap will there be an increase in the amount of bass- or just the responsiveness? Also I want to tame some of the highs on either or both channels- give it a little more growl and a little less bite. Any suggestions?

Anyone- How does the San Rafael sound? Any Clips? I was looking into getting a Greenback for my plexi build (1x12 closed cab)- but the Rafael may be the way to go since it's basically the same price as the Celestion.

I actually recommended reducing a coupling cap, not upping it. The cap in question is in the tone stack. The typical Marshall tone stack comes from the Fender 5F6A Bassman, which was originally intended for use as a bass amp. Little surprise then, that the bass control in the tone stack works more in the bass guitar's frequency range. Changing that one cap shifts the bass control more into the frequency range of a regular guitar. Also changing the bass pot to 500k (or soldering a 1M resistor across the end lugs) helps give a better sweep across the range of the bass pot. This allows the bass response to be controlled much better by the bass tone control.

If there's too much bass generally, some folks reduce C1 and/or C15 to 0.01uF. If you want to tame some treble, like coco said, you can reduce the 500pF bright cap C16 from the Normal channel.

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Great tones come in small glass jars!

update....i put an 2200uf in the cathode power and it helped to tighten it up very much....i opened the back of my 2x12 too, wich helped a little....did some other change to the pi(more voxish values), swapped some tubes too, so now it isnt as powerful, drive a little less and seems a bit less gainy on the inputs but is way clearer. not yet where id want it but a lot closer, now if i could get back some sparkle and more mids variations on the mid knob it would be cool.
ill try to find a 130r/2-5w too for the cathode

I've previously offered to send out 150 ohm ones for free if you want to try it.

_________________
Stephen
Web: www.trinityamps.com. Facebook: facebook.com/trinityamps. Twitter: @trinityamps