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PostPosted: Mon Apr 23, 2018 10:22 am 
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Ok, I cleaned up the switch, the wires, etc. I resoldered the output transformer to the DPDT switch. I turned on and let it idle for a bit. No problems. I plugged in and I have a signal path. No fires! It sounds good!
I didn’t have much chance to test everything but I have the following up and running:

jazz/rock switching
Mid boost
overdrive, level and ratio
Volume and master volume
Bright switch
Presence

The tone controls don’t seem to be as dynamic as I would expect, there is something wrong there.

The PAB doesn’t switch on, more sleuthing to be done...


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PostPosted: Mon Apr 23, 2018 11:01 am 
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Good Progress! The tone controls are pretty subtle in this design but they do work and are noticeable.

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PostPosted: Mon Apr 23, 2018 6:02 pm 
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OSD Output Transformer Resistance Check Taken from brand new OSD OT

PRIMARY
Brown/White - Red 116 ohms
Blue/White - Red 120 ohms
Brown - Red 160 ohms
Blue - Red 172 ohms


SECONDARY
Yellow- Black 2.0 ohms
Green - Black 2.1 ohms
Orange- Black 2.2 ohms

Note: secondary resistances very hard to measure accurately.

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PostPosted: Mon Apr 23, 2018 6:18 pm 
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Good to know the impedance are in the ballpark. I’m going to dig in to the PAB now. When shutting down, turning on the standby and powering off I still get quite a lot of crackle, like a cap discharging.i can’t figure that one out...


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PostPosted: Tue Apr 24, 2018 4:27 pm 
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Everything is working well with one exception, the PAB. I’m at a loss on how to test this. In the process of reorienting, unsoldering and resoldering some of the small parts I’m worried I may have damaged either the board, a diode or the relay in the PAB section. :damntech:


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PostPosted: Tue Apr 24, 2018 5:26 pm 
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On the PAB section of the relay board, should I have continuity between the lead that goes to terminal 2 of the bass pot and the adjacent 22M resistor, measured at the bass pot connection and at the foot of the resistor on the board? This means I also have continuity through the resistor and the lead on the other end of it to the jazz/rock switch terminal 5.


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PostPosted: Wed Apr 25, 2018 8:56 am 
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Reference Relay Layout.

Attachment:
TrinityAmps OSD Relay Layout.jpg
TrinityAmps OSD Relay Layout.jpg [ 1.35 MiB | Viewed 9222 times ]

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PostPosted: Wed Apr 25, 2018 9:03 am 
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AndreDanican wrote:
On the PAB section of the relay board, should I have continuity between the lead that goes to terminal 2 of the bass pot and the adjacent 22M resistor, measured at the bass pot connection and at the foot of the resistor on the board? This means I also have continuity through the resistor and the lead on the other end of it to the jazz/rock switch terminal 5.


Yes, continuity to 22M on board. From switch term 5 to other end of the 22M. See reference drawing.

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PostPosted: Thu Apr 26, 2018 8:41 am 
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Thanks for posting the reference layout, I have been working from the same one here (v.13).

My confusion comes from measuring continuity and finding that I have it across the 22M resistor connecting terminals 2 and 3 on the PAB section. The LED light is always on on the board regardless of footswitch position. Is there a way to test the relay? Perhaps the lack of tone control response is due to the PAB being stuck in the ‘on’ position?


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PostPosted: Thu Apr 26, 2018 9:14 am 
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AndreDanican wrote:
Thanks for posting the reference layout, I have been working from the same one here (v.13).

My confusion comes from measuring continuity and finding that I have it across the 22M resistor connecting terminals 2 and 3 on the PAB section. The LED light is always on on the board regardless of footswitch position. Is there a way to test the relay? Perhaps the lack of tone control response is due to the PAB being stuck in the ‘on’ position?


Definitely no tone control if PAB is on. Wires are crossed somewhere! Seems like 5V on the relay coil all the time.
Pull the PAB lead to the footswitch off, see if it goes out.

You have to get 0V on the coil to test it in the off position.

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PostPosted: Thu Apr 26, 2018 2:33 pm 
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With the PAB lead pulled the LED is off and the tone controls function, Master volume does not. The PAB relay would seem to be the culprit if the wiring is all good, is that correct?


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PostPosted: Sun May 06, 2018 8:59 am 
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AndreDanican wrote:
With the PAB lead pulled the LED is off and the tone controls function, Master volume does not. The PAB relay would seem to be the culprit if the wiring is all good, is that correct?


I’m at an impasse, uncertain of how to diagnose this. Everything seems to be correct. Should I replace the relay switch and see if that’s the problem?


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PostPosted: Sun May 06, 2018 6:23 pm 
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Post a hi-res pic of your relay board and the back of the switch. Sometimes there is something there that you just can't see because you've looked at it too many times... been there.... done that! A new set of eyes can help.

It certainly wouldn't hurt to replace the switch and test it but let us have a look at the board before you do anything crazy (or spend any money.) :)


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PostPosted: Mon May 07, 2018 7:22 am 
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Ok, I finally got around to taking pics and uploading to Photobucket. I'm not sure if I'm uploading these properly.

As I mentioned before, in re-wiring the relay board after seeing I had an earlier version mixed in with the most recent version I damaged the relay switch... with a slip of my soldering iron...if I could test it I would know whether it's "toasted" or not. Here are some photos:

http://s1066.photobucket.com/user/brian ... nity%20OSD


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PostPosted: Thu May 10, 2018 1:01 am 
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Hey Andre, I sent you a private message... take a look.


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PostPosted: Fri May 11, 2018 9:07 am 
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looks rough but not sure it is damaged. you could test continuity through it and see.

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PostPosted: Wed Aug 15, 2018 2:59 pm 
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Well, it has been awhile. Since I last posted I have been to Berlin, Dresden, Prague, Krakow, Salzburg, Vancouver, the Kooenays, the gulf islands, Orford, Toronto, prince edward county, and probably somewhere else I forgot. I have had no time to dig back into the OSD. I have regrettably completely lost the thread on this build due to the long interruption. I’m back at it now.

Stephen sent me a new relay board and I finally put it all together and it’s installed. I have now gone from having a guitar signal to no signal. :damntech: I have a short crackling sound that comes through the speaker when switching the mid and jazz/rock switches. I have some sleuthing to do. I checked continuity from all the relay board connections and they are good. I had a couple of iffy ground connections to the bus bar, which I think I have resolved. The problem is in the signal path I guess. Any suggestions are welcome. When the foot switch is off, should I have LED lights on the relay board? One of them is on all the time.

The bad news on my end is I leave for California on Sunday for a week, then two weeks of crazy hectic activity here at home followed by two more weeks away in the north of Quebec. Sigh.


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PostPosted: Thu Aug 16, 2018 7:41 am 
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Crackling is most likely a solder joint so check that, including ground points.
LEDs should be on only when relay is on so check to see if you have 5V on that relay all the time or not.

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PostPosted: Fri Jan 24, 2020 11:21 am 
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Redo the switch and insulate the terminals wit Liquid tape from Home Depot.

https://www.gardnerbender.com/en/p/LTB- ... erpro-Seal

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