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PostPosted: Thu Nov 05, 2020 10:15 pm 
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I've been dabbling in electronics for many years. Did a bunch of Monte Allums pedal mods, upgraded a VHT Special 6 Ultra, and modified 4 Fender Blues Jr's (billm), converted one of them from EL84's to 6v6/5881/6L6. Super fun!

So I figured it was time to do a complete build. I've also began doing more woodworking lately so looking forward to building the head cab and speaker cab; box joints, routing, etc.

I'll try to document this the best I can for posterity and to help other builders... just like a few of the other threads will no doubt help me.


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PostPosted: Fri Nov 06, 2020 1:43 pm 
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Congats! Think you'll like it. If you plan to build with the KT88/EL34 option be sure to check pg. 68 of the build guide. Also, Coco will e-mail you the plans for a head cab (if you haven't already got them from him). Looking forward to your build posts.

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PostPosted: Tue Nov 17, 2020 11:33 pm 
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Question: the Power Level pot should be a 1M-L. But the pot I have is a A1M, same as the Master Volume except it has the 2 extra pots on the back. Is the correct? Or the wrong pot?

The BOM says: Alpha 1M Audio with switch, that is what came with the kit. Maybe the schematic is wrong. Should it say 1M-A instead of 1M-L?


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PostPosted: Wed Nov 18, 2020 5:54 pm 
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Don't know about the markings, however, the Power Level pot is twice as thick as a normal pot and should have 3 VRM connections on the aluminum section and 2 power connections on the black portion of the pot. There IS a 1M audio taper, but it goes in the Master Volume position next to the Power Level pot. Hope this clarifies things :thumbsup: Also, look through the Tramp forum for build pictures.

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PostPosted: Wed Nov 18, 2020 6:06 pm 
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The Layout sheet is your friend :!: :!:

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PostPosted: Wed Nov 18, 2020 8:55 pm 
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Hankules wrote:
The Layout sheet is your friend :!: :!:


Well, I'm reasonably convinced that the BOM is correct and I have the right pot, and that the Layout is wrong. Reading up on audio taper pots, they are pretty typical for most amp dials and very appropriate for the power level.


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PostPosted: Wed Nov 18, 2020 8:58 pm 
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Tonight, I installed all the hardware!

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PostPosted: Wed Nov 18, 2020 9:00 pm 
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Also soldered the heater wires in... had to remove the fuse socket first.

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File comment: Preamp Tube Wiring
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PostPosted: Mon Nov 23, 2020 9:41 am 
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Got the transformers installed and the PT wired.

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File comment: Fuse and PT wiring
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File comment: PT
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PostPosted: Wed Nov 25, 2020 9:24 am 
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Wired up the OT.

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File comment: Output Jacks and Impedance Selector
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File comment: Output Transformer Wiring
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PostPosted: Wed Nov 25, 2020 9:28 am 
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Question. The 10k resistor across pins 5 and 6 of the octal. I didn't receive a 2W resistor like the layout and instructions say, but I did receive a blue 10k 1/2W resistor. Is that sufficient? If not, I can get them from Amazon for a few bucks.


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PostPosted: Thu Nov 26, 2020 3:22 pm 
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Would recommend the you get the power resistor (10K 2W) or PM Coco (Stephen) to send one. What does the one you have look like (maybe a pic) ?

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PostPosted: Fri Nov 27, 2020 6:39 pm 
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Hankules wrote:
Would recommend the you get the power resistor (10K 2W) or PM Coco (Stephen) to send one. What does the one you have look like (maybe a pic) ?


I ordered a pack from Amazon. The 10k that came with it is small and blue. The ones in the Builders Guide picture are larger and grey like the 1k resistors near/on the octal terminal.


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PostPosted: Fri Nov 27, 2020 6:40 pm 
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On page 45 of the builders guide, it says: Note: Make sure the cathode bias resistors for the power tubes are separated from the bypass
cap and slightly raised off the board as this resistor can emit some heat.

Which ones are the cathode bias resistors?


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PostPosted: Fri Nov 27, 2020 11:27 pm 
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That would be the 570 and 750 Ohm 5W resistors next to the 1000uF 50V electrolytic. Find something to rest them on that you can slide out after you solder them into the eyelet board (to separate them from the board). I used a small piece of metal flashing EDIT: or a thin coin. They can get pretty warm :!: H. Schepers

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PostPosted: Mon Nov 30, 2020 12:07 pm 
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Why is the MOSFET bolted down to the chassis? Why not just solder it onto the eyelet board?


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PostPosted: Mon Nov 30, 2020 7:09 pm 
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Chassis acts as a heatsink. Don't forget the Sil-pad, it isolates the MOSFET electrically. The MOSFET installation is a PITA because of the method used to attach the center leg to the eyelet board; the second method mentioned looks a lot easier. If I ever build another Tramp, that's how I'm gonna do it. I was careful and used heat sinks when I soldered them into the board.

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PostPosted: Mon Nov 30, 2020 7:22 pm 
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Hankules wrote:
Chassis acts as a heatsink. Don't forget the Sil-pad, it isolates the MOSFET electrically. The MOSFET installation is a PITA because of the method used to attach the center leg to the eyelet board; the second method mentioned looks a lot easier. If I ever build another Tramp, that's how I'm gonna do it. I was careful and used heat sinks when I soldered them into the board.


Ah, right. Yeah the 2nd method mentioned is for a Head, which I am forced to use. Yes it looks easier.
Thanks!


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PostPosted: Mon Nov 30, 2020 10:21 pm 
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sorry, the method I meant was the one where Coco says you can mount the MOSFET away from the board and run wires to the board instead of a direct connection to the MOSFET leads. I've only built the combo versions and heard the head version has some tight spots. Check out the pic in this post trinityamps.com/phpbb/viewtopic.php?f=16&t=5695

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PostPosted: Tue Dec 01, 2020 9:14 am 
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Finished the eyelet board this weekend.

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File comment: Eyelet jumpers on the back
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File comment: Top of Eyelet board with leads
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File comment: Eyelet back, decided to put a couple resistors back there because they didn't fit so well on the top.
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File comment: Used 1/8" hardboard as a standoff for the ceramic resistors
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