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PostPosted: Sun Sep 29, 2019 4:25 pm 
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Yes, it does, especially since it also goes to the power control, too. Sounds like a good start. Mitch may be able to confirm, he's the real amp guru in this :!: Test the new one before you put in the circuit, per Coco's advice.

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PostPosted: Sun Sep 29, 2019 5:43 pm 
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Well, I don't know if I'm an amp guru, but thanks for the compliment, Hank. I've been into electronics since I was a teenager back in the early 70s. I mainly build solid-state stuff for audio, digital and lighting control projects. I'm a bit young to have worked with tubes back in their heyday. I didn't get interested in them until around 2010 when I built my first tube guitar amp (a Trinity TC-15!). I have built nine or ten tube guitar amps since then and I also restored some vintage tube hi-fi equipment. I also worked for about 30 years as a technician at a radio station and a large video post-production facility.

If R23 measures open that would stop the voltage from getting from the rectifier and C13 to the MOSFET, C12, and the rest of the amp. C12 is the first capacitor on the board and C13 is the second one, although C13 is the first filter in the power supply.

It's rare for a resistor like that to go open. It might have something to do with the earlier fuse blowing problem. Make really sure there are no shorts anywhere on the board, under the board, or at the tube sockets before installing the new resistor.


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PostPosted: Thu Oct 03, 2019 3:10 pm 
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Les, how is the gremlin chasing coming along? Keep us updated :thumbsup:

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PostPosted: Thu Oct 03, 2019 5:14 pm 
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I've got a replacement DPDT for the bias switch I broke, some more heat shrink tubing and other goodies. Now I'm waiting on a resistor before I can do anything. I'm in a small town surrounded by more small towns so it's coming via mail.

I talked to Stephen about the fuse label on the back of the amp. He confirms it's 1 AMP and future kits will have that correction.

I'll follow through and keep you posted. Probably early next week. I'm dying to hear this amp. I want to pair it with my Vox AC15! :mrgreen:

Guitars on standby!


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PostPosted: Thu Oct 03, 2019 5:43 pm 
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I don't play, but to my ears (still pretty good @67) sounds good with about everything I've heard it thru (cabs) and that was run thru it (Fender Teles and Strats, Gibson SG's and Les Paul's). The new Tramp(#2) will get a test run tomorrow at Mojo's in OKC, a guy wants to audition it. Running JJ 6L6 and maybe new issue Mullard 12AX7. I know I like the EL 34 for sure.

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PostPosted: Thu Oct 03, 2019 6:11 pm 
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I really like the idea of being able to use different tubes in there. I heard a demo with an EL34 and it fuzzy goodness. I'll be trying them all over time, I'm sure.

I've got a fender bassbreaker 1X12 cab with a celestion v-type speaker that I plan on using with the Tramp. I'm not sure about the v-type - it's like a half price greenback, but it sounds cleaner with too much top and bottom. I might swap that out. It's an endless story, but there are worst things to waste your brain on.

That organ in the pic is a 1965 conn tube organ with a stereo amp inside. It's an eternal struggle to not rip it out of there and make it a guitar amp. Good times :D


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PostPosted: Thu Oct 03, 2019 6:31 pm 
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Eminence Texas Heat

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PostPosted: Thu Oct 03, 2019 6:42 pm 
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Here's some pics of #2. I live in a small town, too. But Mouser in Dallas is a day or two away and Antique Electronic Supply/Amplified Parts in Tempe, AZ is about 3 to 4 days. It'd be nice if Oklahoma City had an electronics supply place, no such luck.


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PostPosted: Thu Oct 03, 2019 6:58 pm 
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That looks pretty tasty. Makes me wish I twisted and wrapped the transformer leads like that.

What is the idea with the carbon fiber? Is it going to have some kind of window box? I'm still deciding on if I want to build my own box (limited tools) or buy one from Trinity. First task is to get it working!


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PostPosted: Tue Oct 08, 2019 6:05 pm 
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While waiting for parts I went over every lead on the schematic and tested every part that I could and watched endless electronic videos and read more books.

Today the 100r 5 watt resistor arrived and I wired that in, as well as the bias switch replacement for the one I broke. I plugged it into the current limiter bulb and turned it on. The LED lit and the limiter did not. I took some volt readings and things looked good. I read 900 AC at the point where the rectifier diodes come together which is more than 630, but the instructions say 630 min, and that it is, so I assumed I was ok.

I put some tubes in, plugged it into an 8ohm bassbreaker cab with a v-type 70 watt speaker. Plugged in my guitar and then ROCKED!

Glorious sounds came out! Pure joy, relief and happiness! That's a loud 5 watts!

Every control works great. The VRM works as it should. The bass and treble have excellent range and response over the full sweep. The tweed/tude modes sound excellent. The fat pull adds lots of bass. I'm guessing i'm going to be in tude and thin settings with things mostly cranked and using the volume on the guitar to clean up.

The v-type speaker is holding it back. I can hear its colour. It's too hi-fi and over powered for this amp. I haven't ran it paired with my AC15 yet, so I can't say for sure, but I'll probably throw a good old 25watt greenback in there to blur and warm up the extremes of the response a bit. I'll test it with the 16 ohm one in the vox.

Next step is to get a few tubes to play with - like el34. I've never been in love with JJ, too bright, and tend to use EH in my other amps. I'm undecided on building a box or ordering one from Trinity. I'm going to watch some youtube vids and see what I can pull of with limited tools and some pine planks I have laying around.

Everything is sunshine today :happydance: :thumbsup: :mrgreen: :lol: :D :happydance:

Thank you Mitch and Hank for helping me through this and thanks to Trinity for making this kit available. It was a great experience and will continue to be for many years. I'll record a few sound clips once I play with it some more and post them.

Good times!


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PostPosted: Tue Oct 08, 2019 6:19 pm 
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One revision I would do if I built another Tramp as a head would be to move the power side terminal down to the transformer screw for cleaner/shorter wire paths as in this picture.

I'm going to leave it where it is in this build because it is completely quiet and working.


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PostPosted: Wed Oct 09, 2019 2:35 am 
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Good to hear you got it working! Congratulations. Too bad it didn't work the first time, but that's how it goes sometimes. And you learn more if you have to do a bit of troubleshooting.

The voltage where the two diodes come together is DC. AC readings there don't have much meaning. It should be around 400 to 450 volts DC. But you should see at least 630 volts AC measuring across the ends of the diodes (the anodes) that connect to the power transformer.

There are lots of options with the Tramp. It has a lot of different tones just using its own controls, and you can get even more by swapping tubes and speakers. Sounds like you will be busy for a long time exploring them.

Good luck with your cabinet. They aren't that hard to build, but it's a lot easier if you have a well-equipped woodshop, or at least access to one.


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