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I am getting ready to order a tramp kit,I'm pumped.I started with a 1940 bogen conversion and 2 yrs. later,have taught myself alittle.Can I set it up for 6v6,and use el34 also,without changing the cathode resistor?

No, you will need to determine the correct cathode resistor. It comes with a 6L6 cathode resistor and a switch to go between 6V6 and 6L6. We just need to work out the correct value for an EL34!

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Stephen
Web: www.trinityamps.com. Facebook: facebook.com/trinityamps. Twitter: @trinityamps

Cool.I figure I will get more of a deluxe tone with the 6v6,plus lower volume,and more of a all out rock tone + volume with the EL34.Although KT66 is appealing,I love hendrix's axis bold as love alblum,and the 66's are pricey.The posibilities are exciting!
What about a choke?I know most fenders have like 5-9henry chokes,marshalls 20henry.Would a choke make a noticable difference?

A choke would not make a difference in the Tramp. It is Single Ended, Class A amp with a solid state rectifier.

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Stephen
Web: www.trinityamps.com. Facebook: facebook.com/trinityamps. Twitter: @trinityamps

As a general approximation, the 6L6's cathode resistor value will work OK with an EL34. However, you would need to use the 2500 ohm tapping on the output transformer's primary for the EL34, rather than the 5k one, which is for 6L6s and 6V6s.

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Great tones come in small glass jars!

does it matter which center lug you use on the impedence switch? Also the tiny diode looking zener,where's it go?

brown and yellow from ot goes straight to pin 3 on octal?

Correct Brown/Yellow goes straight to P3 on the Octal.

Word of advice (as I just finishes my Tramp build last weekend at Amp Camp):
-Make sure to make good mechanical connections on the jumpers under the board so they dont come out when you start soldering on the top side.
-Leave yourself as much room as possible in the holes on the board as when you populate the board you will see there are a few spots where many components are supposed to go in the same hole......if you run out of room just make a good mechanical connection to one of the other leads and use that to solder to.
-Watch out for potential shorts (ex the diode that goes right over the MOSFET holes.....we slid some sleeve from another wire over the diode leads to keep it from shorting out.)
-Pay close attention to the sheilded cables and where the sheild goes...the most confusing area was on the tude switch....The sheild goes to pin 1 on the pot, the core goes to pin 2 and there is a separate jumper wire connecting pin 1 to the left center pin on the "tude" switch.

Hope this helps, good luck with the rest of the build!
-Dana

Thanks,I'm hip,some of the eyelet connections get pretty tight. I try to think of banging the amp around town,making sure all the connections stay cool.Just got access to a table saw and shop to make my cab! Dovetail jig,so all is good. Still think'in bout a 15" speaker! W/kt66

I jumpered both center lugs on the impedence switch. I had no sound when I was using only the "A" terminal.

And follow the layout diagram for the brown/yellow wire from the output transformer. NOT THE INSTRUCTIONS! The layout shows it going to whatever pin on the octal (pin 3, I think). The instructions are telling you to connect it to one of the resistors at the terminal strip next to the octal.

You must have connected the taps (4, 8, 16) to the wrong lugs then. If the 4,8,16 go to the right lugs you just need to use terminal A.

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Actually, I have changed the instruction manual as a result. Pin 3 is the Plate.

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Stephen
Web: www.trinityamps.com. Facebook: facebook.com/trinityamps. Twitter: @trinityamps

Nope. I connected the taps to pins 1, 2, and 3. They're numbered, as well as they exactly match every picture on the instructions, and every picture I saw online.

I wonder if I jumper those center lugs on impedance switch if I'll get sound. I rechecked all of my connections again last night, but still no sound. Maybe worth a shot...

Yeah, it's definately worth a shot.