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 Post subject: Triwatt build from Texas
PostPosted: Wed Dec 18, 2019 1:18 pm 
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Location: Brazoria County Texas
Hello all, let me introduce myself. my name is Mark and I live in Texas. I have been an aircraft mechanic for 22 years and have worked on single engine flight school planes, corporate jets 737s, MD 80s and Bell Helicopters. My sheet metal experience has given me the opportunity to work on all these aircraft. Currently working on Bell 206 B III, 206 L-4, and Bell 230. we operate in the Gulf of Mexico. This is my first amp build and quite looking forward to enjoying every minute of it. I'm sure Ill have questions but for now just wanted to get a thread started for my build.

Cheers


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PostPosted: Thu Dec 19, 2019 12:00 pm 
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So I'm gonna use KT66 in my build and was wanting too know on the resistor value to use in place of the 620K. manual says 1M but it also says may need to adjust value to get to the correct bias adjustment.
which value should I have to get it into the adjustment range.
Thanks Mark


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PostPosted: Fri Dec 27, 2019 9:25 am 
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You should be OK with whats provided in the kit. It is designed for 6V6 and Kt66

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PostPosted: Wed Jan 08, 2020 1:24 pm 
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Here is my build so far


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PostPosted: Wed Jan 08, 2020 3:34 pm 
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Looks very nice.

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PostPosted: Sat Jan 11, 2020 12:05 pm 
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I’m not exactly seeing how the 100K resistor is connected to the overdrive push/pull switch. I see it’s connected to terminal 2 on the pot and the upper left terminal of the switch. Does it also get soldered to the upper right terminal of the switch? And how about the lower right terminal of the switch?

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Mark


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PostPosted: Sat Jan 11, 2020 3:40 pm 
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Looking at the schematic, the overdrive push/pull switch is a double-pole double-throw switch and nothing is connected to one of the poles. So the three terminals on the right side are left unconnected. Just connect one end of the 100k resistor to pin 2 on the overdrive pot and the other end to the upper left terminal of the switch.

The layout drawing seems to indicate that the resistor also connects to the upper right terminal of the switch. I don't see any reason to do that, but it would be OK as long as nothing connects to the middle right terminal.


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PostPosted: Sat Jan 11, 2020 5:07 pm 
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mitch m wrote:
The layout drawing seems to indicate that the resistor also connects to the upper right terminal of the switch. I don't see any reason to do that, but it would be OK as long as nothing connects to the middle right terminal.


It does seem to indicate that but nothing is supposed to be connected to it (the right side).
Check my picture below on the right wiring of the resistor. I used a little bit of shrink tube to prevent the lead from accidentally touching any lugs of the potmeter.


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PostPosted: Sat Jan 11, 2020 5:14 pm 
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Thanks guys, here is a pic of the of V1 and the other nputs


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PostPosted: Sat Jan 11, 2020 5:16 pm 
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Here is another shot


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PostPosted: Sat Jan 11, 2020 5:32 pm 
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Looking good and neat!
I'm sure you will get there. :-)


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PostPosted: Sun Jan 12, 2020 5:36 pm 
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Agree with Gertjan, that is really clean looking build :!: I do have a question, though, how do you get the wires so straight? I saw where someone drilled a hole through a board just slightly over the wire(with insulation) diameter and pulled it through the hole while spinning it w/ a drill to straighten the wire, but haven't tried it yet.

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PostPosted: Sun Jan 12, 2020 6:35 pm 
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It takes patience. I am a perfectionist hence the straight wiring.
I used a pair of pliers to bend the wires and checked their fit before I soldered them. Takes some time but it makes for a neat build.


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PostPosted: Sun Jan 12, 2020 11:29 pm 
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I'm not trying be mean or dismiss your build, Gertjan2411, but I was hoping Rotorcraft could provide information on his build. :oops: Hope you don't take it wrong. :(

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PostPosted: Mon Jan 13, 2020 1:42 pm 
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Hankules wrote:
I'm not trying be mean or dismiss your build, Gertjan2411, but I was hoping Rotorcraft could provide information on his build. :oops: Hope you don't take it wrong. :(


Hello Hankules, I rolled the wire between two pieces of wood, back and forth like rubbing your hands together trying to get them warm, except using wood. Works great with the cap leads also just have to do each side separately.
Should finish up tonight and have it fired up. Probably have 80 hours in the build. Been working on it a lot since Christmas.


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PostPosted: Mon Jan 13, 2020 1:46 pm 
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Here it is almost done


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PostPosted: Tue Jan 14, 2020 1:47 am 
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Well I fired it up, no smoke no burned fuses all voltages within specs. Plugged in the Les Paul and she sounds amazing It’s almost midnight so I really can’t put her to the high volume test I’ll report back. Here are a few pics. Thanks for the help.
Mark


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PostPosted: Tue Jan 14, 2020 2:08 am 
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Very nice work. :thumbsup:


Scott


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PostPosted: Tue Jan 14, 2020 2:46 am 
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Not surprised that it worked the first time! Very nice workmanship, Mark. Lots of attention to minor details. It should sound great when you get a chance to crank it up.


Last edited by mitch m on Tue Jan 14, 2020 3:31 pm, edited 1 time in total.

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PostPosted: Tue Jan 14, 2020 11:04 am 
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Thank you for all the kind words. I really like attention to detail. Nothing is a rush, take your time, pay attention to detail and it will pay off.
Thanks Mark
P.S. gonna hear all its full glory tonight. Can’t wait!!!


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