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 Post subject: Re: TR(y)WATT
PostPosted: Wed Jun 24, 2015 8:30 am 
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Congratulations :)

as they say pictures are worth a thousand words


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 Post subject: Re: TR(y)WATT
PostPosted: Sat Jun 27, 2015 11:40 pm 
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Looking forward to your build story!

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 Post subject: Re: TR(y)WATT
PostPosted: Sat Aug 01, 2015 12:47 pm 
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Looks good so far. According to the layout drawing there are six terminal strips and your missing one mounts near V3. You are also missing a ground lug near the power connector.

For the buss you can use bare 20 gauge wire. Some should have been supplied with the kit. You can use thicker wire like 14 or 12 gauge, but it will be hard to wrap it around the turrets or fit it into the turret holes.

For 240 volt power the fuse should be half the value it is for 120 volts.


Last edited by mitch m on Sat Aug 01, 2015 11:21 pm, edited 1 time in total.

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 Post subject: Re: TR(y)WATT
PostPosted: Sat Aug 01, 2015 6:59 pm 
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For the buss, yes, use stripped slid core wire, 22 is fine too. Correct to cut fuse in half, but check as you may have got smaller value fuse.

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 Post subject: Re: TR(y)WATT
PostPosted: Sun Aug 02, 2015 11:01 pm 
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fourchet wrote:
mitch m wrote:
Looks good so far. According to the layout drawing there are six terminal strips and your missing one mounts near V3. You are also missing a ground lug near the power connector.

For the buss you can use bare 20 gauge wire. Some should have been supplied with the kit. You can use thicker wire like 14 or 12 gauge, but it will be hard to wrap it around the turrets or fit it into the turret holes.

For 240 volt power the fuse should be half the value it is for 120 volts.


Thanks mitch m, i missed one.
For the ground, some nuts a missing, i will fix it later.

i am wiring the PT, can you confirm for european (230v), this wiring ?
-black & Blue/black together to IEC common (twisted with fuse/switch connection)
-Yellow/black & Red/black together to switch (twisted too ?)

thanks


Wiring is in the manual. is there a problem with it?

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 Post subject: Re: TR(y)WATT
PostPosted: Mon Aug 03, 2015 5:33 pm 
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fourchet wrote:
Hi coco,

"The other side of the IEC socket or ‘Neutral’ gets connected to the ‘Common’ side of the power transformer."
I am not sure, what is the color of the common ?


On the PT connect Black-Blue to Black - Yellow. The solid Black is Common / Neutral . Black-Red is Hot /Line.

Colour coding of IEC cables in Europe is:

Ground Hot (L) Neutral (N)
Europe Green/White or Green/Yellow Brown Blue

In some parts of Europe, It makes no difference how the Hot / Neutral wires are matched.

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 Post subject: Re: TR(y)WATT
PostPosted: Mon Aug 03, 2015 5:34 pm 
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Your build is looking very neat so far Keep it up!!

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 Post subject: Re: TR(y)WATT
PostPosted: Tue Aug 04, 2015 11:46 pm 
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Your amp looks really good. Un travail bien fait!

I don't have the Triwatt manual, but from what Stephen said and the layout drawing, make the following connections:
IEC Neutral (Blue) > Transformer Black
IEC Live (Brown) > Fuse > Power switch > Transformer Black/Red
IEC Ground (Green/Yellow or Green/White) > chassis ground lug near IEC connector

Also connect Transformer Black/Blue to Transformer Black/Yellow.

HT1 and HT1/OT also connect to the power switch but on different terminals than the AC. Make sure the switch can't connect AC to HT!

It is normal for transformer windings to read very low on an ohm meter. Not quite a dead short, though.


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 Post subject: Re: TR(y)WATT
PostPosted: Wed Aug 05, 2015 4:58 pm 
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You need all tubes to test voltages accurately. You can put the 6V6 in and see how the B+, AC voltages and try to bias them up.

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 Post subject: Re: TR(y)WATT
PostPosted: Wed Aug 05, 2015 8:47 pm 
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J'espère qu'elle sonne aussi bien comme il ressemble!

It probably says this in the manual but don't forget to have a speaker connected if you power it up with the output tubes in place. You can damage the output transformer if it has no load.

The DC voltages will read higher than normal if all the tubes are not installed.


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 Post subject: Re: TR(y)WATT
PostPosted: Thu Aug 06, 2015 11:17 pm 
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CONGRATULATIONS!!!

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 Post subject: Re: TR(y)WATT
PostPosted: Sat Aug 08, 2015 8:31 am 
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You need to switch the B+ for 6V6, the lower of the two settings. Then rebias and check voltages. 447 is very high for 6V6

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 Post subject: Re: TR(y)WATT
PostPosted: Mon Aug 24, 2015 7:59 pm 
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That's better! 6V6 or KT66? Now are you using the 12AX7 in V4 /PI or a 12AT7 as per design?

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 Post subject: Re: TR(y)WATT
PostPosted: Sat Sep 12, 2015 3:09 pm 
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B+ is a little high for 6V6. Is the bias switch in the 6V6 position? If you flip it , doe the B+ go up or down.

Voltages are generally not too bad, just high B+

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 Post subject: Re: TR(y)WATT
PostPosted: Tue Sep 29, 2015 4:32 pm 
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If your AC input is 226V that will cause all the other voltages to be high.

A high B+ is not necessarily bad. A high B+ with the bias running hot is bad. Your voltages look fine, keep the bias where it should be and you'll be fine.

I'd measure again and get the data with a 120V input.

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 Post subject: Re: TR(y)WATT
PostPosted: Sat Sep 02, 2017 10:23 pm 
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They are in range. What are the voltages and bias of the 6V6 power tubes? and what is the mains voltage. The mains voltage could be down fom when you measured it 2 years ago.

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