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 Post subject: Line Out - Future Mod?
PostPosted: Fri Jun 12, 2009 2:24 pm 
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Looking at the Trinity 18's Layout there is an option to put a Line Out Jack in it. Can that be done with the Triwatt? I could use that more than I could use a Footswitch for to Overdrive, to fill the Jack Hole.

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PostPosted: Fri Jun 12, 2009 8:03 pm 
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Absolutely,

I was going to include that option but got talked out of it.

Use the schematic in the TC-15 off the 8 ohm tap.

viewtopic.php?t=859

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PostPosted: Fri Jun 12, 2009 11:52 pm 
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ROB_PRICE wrote:
Looking at the Trinity 18's Layout there is an option to put a Line Out Jack in it. Can that be done with the Triwatt? I could use that more than I could use a Footswitch for to Overdrive, to fill the Jack Hole.

Unless you're going to run the line out signal through a speaker simulator (like Tripower's H&K Red Box), the sound from it will be bright in the high end and somewhat harsh. How about instead using the hole for a stereo jack, for a simple passive FX send/return?

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PostPosted: Sat Jun 13, 2009 12:04 am 
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Would this be a series or parallel loop? I wound assume that the effects would have to be "line level type".

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PostPosted: Sat Jun 13, 2009 9:35 am 
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Just a simple series loop, which would break into the amp circuit after the tone stack. Some of the old Hiwatts got modded like this. The nice thing is that Hiwatts have an extra gain stage after the tone stack and MV, and before the PI. So this provides a recovery stage

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PostPosted: Sat Jun 13, 2009 11:43 am 
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To quote the Little Einsteins (A TV Show my 3 1/2 year old watches too much) "Mission Completion" with the Triwatt. I did the chopstick thing with the wires comming off the OD Pot/Switch, and I still get a little squeal, but that with the knob at 4 o'clock - more than acceptable. Did the high volume test for about 15 minutes, and everything seems fine. Running a Fane AX12-150 in the top combo cab, and a Tonker in the bottom extention cab. They both sound roughly the same, but with a little bit more brightness with the Fane. I will not bother to play musical chairs with all the speakers I have, because the Fane & Tonker do the Hiwatt thing so well.

As for an effects loop if I get a line level delay I will do that mod. I currently use a Boss GT-8 for delays, and modulation effects, and it like an instrument level signal.

Thanks for everyones help.

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PostPosted: Sat Jun 13, 2009 11:53 am 
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Ya! It's been fun! Good job on the amp...have fun!
Stew


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Tue Jun 16, 2009 10:19 am 
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I put a line out on my DR504 clone, using Hiwatt's layout. It DEFINITELY needs a speaker sim to roll off the highs. I use the line out into a Red Box on that amp. On my next one, I just built a Red Box into the chassis, but used the same line out schematic to feed it. Works great.


In a pinch, you can use the line out and adjust the mixer board EQ, but it sounds a lot better with a Red Box.


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PostPosted: Tue Jun 16, 2009 8:23 pm 
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zaphod wrote:
Just a simple series loop, which would break into the amp circuit after the tone stack. Some of the old Hiwatts got modded like this. The nice thing is that Hiwatts have an extra gain stage after the tone stack and MV, and before the PI. So this provides a recovery stage


Something I've been considering for my 2204 also...but now I'm toying with the idea of a buffered loop in that thing.

You know - something I haven't done is try any of my FX in front of the Triwatt. I've been so caught up in how it sounds on it's own!


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PostPosted: Tue Jun 16, 2009 8:28 pm 
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ROB_PRICE wrote:
I did the chopstick thing with the wires comming off the OD Pot/Switch, and I still get a little squeal, but that with the knob at 4 o'clock - more than acceptable.


Rob, just a couple points of interest regarding squeal. I shielded the wire from the junction of the channel vols to the OD & that helped quite a bit. It didn't kill it altogether, but reduced it significantly (and the noise level also) and got rid of some "motorboating" I was getting at extreme settings. I thought that was as good as I could possibly get it, but when I installed the chassis into the cab...also with shielding under the chassis...the squeal is basically gone. It will whistle a touch when I really push the tone stack & OD, but in any usable context it's just fine even with the OD dimed.


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PostPosted: Wed Jun 17, 2009 8:32 am 
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Emohawk wrote:
Quote:
I shielded the wire from the junction of the channel vols to the OD & that helped quite a bit.


I will try that next time I open up the amp.

I currrently get the squeal at about the top 10% of the travel of the OD knob (4 o'clock). If I am using my effects I am not using the OD, and if I am going straight into the amp the OD is about 11 o'clock, but there is the satisfaction of knowing that it is close to perfect.

I love the Triwatt - 22 Watts of Hiwatt Tone - My 3-1/2 year old son can sleep thru it, and no ringing ears.

Thanks:

PS: My son is being trained right. He awoke in the middle of Monday Night and asked to watch the David Gilmour DVD.

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PostPosted: Wed Jun 17, 2009 9:12 am 
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Tripower455 wrote:
On my next one, I just built a Red Box into the chassis, but used the same line out schematic to feed it. Works great.


Got a schematic you want to share on that? Sounds cool.

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PostPosted: Wed Jun 17, 2009 9:13 am 
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Quote:
My son is being trained right. He awoke in the middle of Monday Night and asked to watch the David Gilmour DVD


Very cool. Good work Dad!!

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 Post subject: Training Photo
PostPosted: Wed Jun 17, 2009 10:59 am 
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Training Photo!

Coco, I just E-mail I photo of my son being trained. It's OK to post if you want. I cannot figure out how.

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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Wed Jun 17, 2009 12:26 pm 
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coco wrote:
Tripower455 wrote:
On my next one, I just built a Red Box into the chassis, but used the same line out schematic to feed it. Works great.


Got a schematic you want to share on that? Sounds cool.


LOL.. No... Reverse engineering something like that is beyond my limited capabiliies!

I basically removed the board from a Red Box, mounted it in the chassis and used the line in connections. I also ran jumpers from the board to the xlr, which I mounted on the rear of the chassis.

It is DEAD quiet and works perfectly.

I think the schems for the red boxes are available on the web somewhere. I used one that is capable of being phantom powered or 9V. I only use the phantom power from the board.


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Wed Jun 17, 2009 12:51 pm 
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I found three different rev's of the Red Box schematics on-line. One is the "Pro" version which added transformer isolation and phantom power capability, ground lift, etc. I can proto one up for people if they like, but at under $100US it's not worth it. I would just buy it and break it out.

For those unfamiliar, the H&K Red Box is a speaker or line level "Tap", not a speaker load or substitute. It has a through jack style return to the amp (if used in this way) to properly load the amp's output. For permanent installs like they're discussing here, adding the line out mod before the Red Box may be the way to go rather than off of the speaker out directly.

Joe G

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 Post subject: Re: Training Photo
PostPosted: Wed Jun 17, 2009 3:36 pm 
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I happen to have a schematic for the Red Box sitting on my hard drive. But I agree it's probably not worth the trouble of building one yourself. Behringer also make a line out/speaker simulator box. You just plug it between your speaker output and your speaker (or dummy load).
ROB_PRICE wrote:
Coco, I just E-mail I photo of my son being trained. It's OK to post if you want. I cannot figure out how.

You need to upload the picture onto one of the online photo hosting sites, such as flickr or photobucket. Make a note of the URL. Then use the "Img" button and place the URL between the tags it creates.

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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Wed Jun 17, 2009 3:45 pm 
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http://www.trinityamps.com/phpbb/viewtopic.php?t=781

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