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PostPosted: Mon Jun 06, 2011 1:39 pm 
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so... now I want a scale (balance?) like that... did you find that in "grampa's workshop?"....


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PostPosted: Wed Jan 30, 2013 3:04 pm 
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Just re-read your story - and it is one for sure! Thanks again. I want to save this story for a long time. I am just wondering if I could get the picturees & host them on our site, so as to never loose them?
+++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++

Now, for anyone who wants to mix their own shellac cocktail.

1. Zinsser Clear Shellac - 85%
2. Zinser Amber Shellac - 15%

Then add 25% more volume of Isopropyl Alcohol, 99% to dilute the mixture.

Apply a minimum of three coats to a tweed cabinet - 5 is better.

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PostPosted: Wed Jan 30, 2013 3:05 pm 
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Bruce Dow wrote:
so... now I want a scale (balance?) like that... did you find that in "grampa's workshop?"....


I have an old postage scale - looks kind neat too!!

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PostPosted: Thu Jul 11, 2013 8:40 pm 
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These are great detailed build instructions.

I'm considering a Trinity Tweed build and these threads really help in deciding.

Michael


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PostPosted: Wed Jul 31, 2013 9:25 am 
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Very nice! Your guide has inspired me to attempt this myself. How big is your cab and how much tweed did you use?

thanks for the great pictorial/tutuorial
Steve


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PostPosted: Sun Oct 20, 2013 9:22 pm 
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The results you obtained are excellent.


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PostPosted: Wed Mar 19, 2014 3:03 pm 
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I realize this is an old post, but I just found it and have a question - why is it assumed that the treated side of the tweed is the back? I suppose you could make it the back of you wanted to color it from scratch.


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PostPosted: Wed Mar 19, 2014 9:30 pm 
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austincustomshop wrote:
I realize this is an old post, but I just found it and have a question - why is it assumed that the treated side of the tweed is the back? I suppose you could make it the back of you wanted to color it from scratch.


If you don't want to lacquer the cab, then some people like the unfinished look. I've seen Fenders that way. Sure you could do what you suggested but would need to be careful on how the colour soaks into the Tweed.

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PostPosted: Sun Apr 10, 2016 8:06 pm 
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Thought I'd post a cautionary tale. Using contact cement on the cabinet and a LePage spray adhesive on the tweed I didn't put enough coats of contact cement on one of the plywood back panels (plywood absorbs a lot of contact cement) and it didn't adhere well. To repair the bad adherence I peeled half of the tweed back and applied more contact cement, unfortunately the liquid form of the contact cement soaked through the tweed in a couple of spots where I couldn't peel it back enough -- this stained.

I thought maybe the sealer would darken the tweed and even out the stains but it did not, so I once again removed the tweed from this back panel in order to redo it completely. I thought I'd post an image of the stains so folks can see what happens when adhesive (in this case contact cement) soaks through the tweed. This tweed has some sort of coating on the front, but no protective layer on the back as I've heard some do. Since I'm in Canada I got my tweed from nextgenguitars.ca. I'm not saying anything bad about this tweed, it just has to be handled correctly.


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PostPosted: Sun Apr 10, 2016 11:02 pm 
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We use LePage solvent based contact cememt. One coat on cabinet and tweed. It soaks through in many cases BUT we let it dry for as long as possible before lacquering. A minimum of 3 days better 1 week or more.
You could try water based cement, but I have no experience with that and tweed.

When we apply the lacquer, forst one or two coats of clear, followed by one or two coats of our custom tinted lacquer.

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PostPosted: Mon Apr 11, 2016 10:22 am 
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coco wrote:
We use LePage solvent based contact cememt. One coat on cabinet and tweed. It soaks through in many cases BUT we let it dry for as long as possible before lacquering. A minimum of 3 days better 1 week or more.
You could try water based cement, but I have no experience with that and tweed.

When we apply the lacquer, forst one or two coats of clear, followed by one or two coats of our custom tinted lacquer.


So the parts that soak and leave discoloration lighten and disappear when fully dry? Or does your tinted lacquer even everything out? I guess I'm asking if you believe these stains would have disappeared in a couple of days.

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PostPosted: Mon Apr 11, 2016 10:24 am 
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Yes, Initially they are dark but the vast majority of them disappear after letting it 'dry' for several days or a week.

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PostPosted: Mon Apr 11, 2016 12:19 pm 
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coco wrote:
Yes, Initially they are dark but the vast majority of them disappear after letting it 'dry' for several days or a week.


Good to know. The stains on my black plate were of a spill severity, so I'd be amazed if they faded completely. I've already re-covered the part in any event.

On another note, any idea where I can source this snazzy metal grill in Canada?


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PostPosted: Wed Apr 13, 2016 9:44 am 
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Nice grill but haven't seen that anywhere. I got some perforated steel at http://metalsupermarkets.com/store-finder/ a long time. ago. Expensive as I recall.

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