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 Post subject: Pre-Build Questions
PostPosted: Wed May 13, 2009 10:59 pm 
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Hoping to start a Tweed Deluxe in the next month or so. Got a few questions...

Been thinking about trying some 6L6s in the amp, seen it done before. Seems the 5E3's I have seen with the big bottles have approx 30V more on their plates, the cathode resistor alters by 20R and it is rated for more power. They also seem to use a GZ34 recto. Anyways I remember Stephen telling me the custom transformers he uses are over spec. The 6L6’s draw way more current then the 6V6’s though. The filament is rated at 2A correct? If so using 6L6’s is totally out of the picture.

I know 6L6’s wont increase the output much with the mismatch in primary impedance. Kinda want to see what I can do with them and how the tone changes. I think it would be fun to experiment with.


Any opinions on using fancy pots? Been thinking about using some military spec 2W pots. These range from $10 - $15 USD though, that’s nuts! I really want to see how much noise I can reduce so these fancy pots seem part of the equation. Worth it?

Ive been hearing people bitch about the volume controls on 5E3s (not Trinity’s specifically). They say the control changes abruptly at about 2-3 then does nothing from there out. I realize these controls aren’t your standard variable voltage divider. But is there a better taper to use to help smooth out the control? Do these complaining hipsters not know that the other volume control has an affect and the amp has interactive controls? Apparently high quality pots (ya the expensive ones) have smoother tapers than your more common Alpha/CTS. Supposedly they can help smooth out the control on the Tweed. Just curious on other people’s opinions.

Reading on of Gerald BBQ’s books he talks about the lead dress/parasitic oscillation issues in the 5E3 a lot. He says there is lots of “errors” in the layout. I know this man is a bit of a solder sniffer and does like himself and talking mojo. I’m sure Stephen wouldn’t sell amps that have oscillation issues and are unstable. I doubt it but has anyone had any issues with oscillation or lead dress?

Finally what is the size of the hole in the chassis for the mains “power cord”?

Thanks….
Chris


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Thu May 14, 2009 1:07 pm 
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I would check with Stephen about the transformers before trying 6L6s in that amp. I know he has a general policy of doing everything over spec, but you can't over-spec too much without affecting the original vintage tone, and with 6L6s you 're increasing both the B+ and the heater currents - the latter by a factor of 2, IIRC. Also the charm of a 5E3 is the way it breaks up, and using 6L6s will make the amp run cleaner. Obviously, if you're looking for cleaner tones then that would be perfect. I can also assure you that Trinity's layouts are fully debugged and stable. :D

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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Fri May 15, 2009 9:43 am 
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Ya I kinda just want to try them out, if I can. I understand the problems that might exist.

Stephen do you know the size of the power chord hole?

Also the Beltons you use, are they top mount, bottom mount or chassis mount? AntiqueElecSuplly has all three.


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Mon May 18, 2009 11:48 am 
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Any ideas on that power cord size?


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Wed May 20, 2009 2:41 pm 
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Beltons are top mount; Cord strain relief hole is .6" [I think]; I would not recommend using a 6V6 OT / PT for 6L6 amp. It is also 8K as well, not a best match for 6L6.
What current are you're likely to draw with the 6L6s? you dont want to burn out the OT.

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 Post subject: Re: Pre-Build Questions
PostPosted: Tue Jun 09, 2009 10:04 am 
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kurtlives wrote:
Any opinions on using fancy pots? Been thinking about using some military spec 2W pots. These range from $10 - $15 USD though, that’s nuts! I really want to see how much noise I can reduce so these fancy pots seem part of the equation. Worth it?

Thanks….
Chris


Not sure what using higher end pots would do. Once you have a good one you have a good one. Right? How can you silence something that isn't making noise to begin with?

Remember, your circuit can only be as quiet as it's noisiest part. So I would say focusing on lead dress, layout, and and good all around part quality or more important than doing something like way over-specing the pots.


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PostPosted: Tue Jun 09, 2009 12:04 pm 
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Well the pots I have are 2W military spec (made in Canada by PEC). Pots are just like resistors as far as I have heard regarding their power rating. Higher the "wattage" the quieter. These pots are beats though, very large and well sealed, really nice quality.

Some log pots differ, there is 10% - 15% log pots. I have CTS, PEC and Alpha to try. The Tweed can apparently not have the smoothest volume control so I am thinking I can maybe play with the taper to help smooth things out.

That said about the vol control...I played a Trintiy Tweed and the volume controls were quite smooth. I imagine Stephen is using Alpha's.


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 Post subject: Re: Pre-Build Questions
PostPosted: Wed Jun 10, 2009 9:19 am 
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Revv23 wrote:
Not sure what using higher end pots would do. Once you have a good one you have a good one. Right? How can you silence something that isn't making noise to begin with? Remember, your circuit can only be as quiet as it's noisiest part.

Carbon pots will introduce some hiss. But we still use them. :)
kurtlives wrote:
Pots are just like resistors as far as I have heard regarding their power rating. Higher the "wattage" the quieter.

Very true. And not only that, they're carbon comp resistors. So higher wattage is a real good idea. I've got a few plastic track pots left in my parts bins, that I got a good deal on a few years ago. They're real nice and quiet. :D

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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Thu Jun 11, 2009 9:22 am 
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edited. wrong topic.


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Thu Jun 11, 2009 2:49 pm 
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Quote:
That said about the vol control...I played a Trinity Tweed and the volume controls were quite smooth. I imagine Stephen is using Alpha's.


Yes, 1M Audio Alpha 1/2W in that one.

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