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 Post subject: TC15 amp build from VA
PostPosted: Thu Nov 03, 2016 10:14 pm 
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First and foremost I wanted to thank everyone that has posted and shared their TC15 builds. Like a lot of others on this board, I've spent hours studying the diagrams, detailed pictures, sound clips and suggestions. THANK YOU!!! :thumbsup:

My journey started about 10 months ago... I decided I wanted (needed :) ) to understand how a guitar tube amplifier worked and in the nature of my inner lego child, I had to build one to truly grasp the concept of the vacuum tube goodness. That brought me here (trinity) and influenced me into buying my first tube amp kit - *insert golden ray of lead tone shredding sunshine* .... the TC15!

I am planning on sharing as much as possible along the way and hope that everyone will enjoy the pictures.

Unlike a lot of builders I decided to build my cabinet first. This too was a new skill I decided was essential (why not, right?). I learned A LOT about perfect measuring/cutting, DIY jigs, routing, framing, square corners, finger joints, baltic birch, baffles, tolex, corners etc etc. All part of the journey!

Baltic Birch 13ply
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DIY Straight jig
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DIY fingerjoint jig
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Sold some possessions to get this little baby
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Handle mount
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ALMOST FINISHED....Now on to phase 2!!
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Last edited by JRS on Sun Nov 27, 2016 1:55 pm, edited 7 times in total.

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PostPosted: Thu Nov 03, 2016 10:31 pm 
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I must say that doing business with Stephen has been nothing short of extraordinary. Unbelievable service, great communication and he truly loves his work. Thank you!

After a few interesting interactions with transformer shipments and my local post office, the package finally arrived. WHOOHOOO!!!

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Decided that I needed a jig to hold the chassis as I worked on it, so with some spare wood I had laying around....viola

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All along I planned on adding an FX Loop on channel 2, but I needed to drill into the chassis to make the mount work for the send/return/boost/bypass as well as the mounts for the power section. I recently saw Stephen put a rear plate on a TC15 with an fx loop which looks SWEET! https://www.facebook.com/TrinityAmps/photos/pcb.1145002442261235/1144994238928722/?type=3&theater... would love to get my hands on some measurements to make a rear plate for mine.

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Heaters finished 8) ... trying to keep things as tight and neat as the others
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PT wiring was a bit tricky, as was the 4 strand braiding of the OT, but yet again THANKS to 2x6L6 (and his moose), cigarman, mitch m, kurtlives, coco and others for the help here!! Your posts are what keep me going! Thank you!

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Last edited by JRS on Sat Nov 05, 2016 3:10 pm, edited 7 times in total.

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PostPosted: Thu Nov 03, 2016 10:57 pm 
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Now I'm to the planning stage on how I want to run the wires for my fx loop. I decided to use an IronSounds fx loop due to the good reviews on transparency. Since I am veering off the beaten path with an fx loop I feel like I want to take some time to think this part out.

If anyone doesn't mind chiming in, sharing any experience or guidance I would GREATLY appreciate it! THANKS!!

Trying to figure out

1. Where I need to connect the ground for the power PCB of the effects loop to keep noise down...power section ground (diagram below)?

2. Where I need to connect the B+ from the 2nd filter cap...right at the 2nd filter?

3. Where to connect the INPUT and OUTPUT of the fx loop signal PCB.. shielded wire a must

4. How I should run my power wires from the power section of the fx loop to the signal board of the fx loop. Planning on running them out of the power PCB, 90* turn under the crunch munch switch, then under the impedence switch and keeping them from the output speaker jack then....Run it around the signal PCB or run it under the PCB?...any issues with potential hum going either way (diagram below)?


Directions from IronSound

5. Connect the Vin terminal on the power PCB to the second power filter in your amplifier (after the first filtering RC network).

6. Connect the GND terminal on the power PCB to a ground nearest the power filter section (for IronSound JA-TMB model refer to the JA-TMB Installation Diagram). Note: A bad ground spot will make the loop noisy!

7. Using the supplied diagram, connect the signal PCB to the power PCB.

8. Locate the filter input capacitor to the phase splitter in your amplifier.

9. Using the supplied diagram, connect the IN and OUT terminals on the signal PCB to your amplifier. Note: You MUST use shielded wire, or you will get noise.


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Starting to get serious!! Whoohoo!!

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Pertaining to questions above

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Any help for a newbie is much appreciated!!!!

JRS


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PostPosted: Mon Nov 07, 2016 11:20 am 
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After some additional research it looks like I should tap the B+ right after the 2nd big filter cap or right after the 22k resistor.

For the signal portion (channel 2) of the fx loop I've zero'd it in to just before or just after the 220k resistor, coming from the treble pot.

Am I on the right path?

Thanks in advance!

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PostPosted: Sat Nov 12, 2016 8:22 am 
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Here is a picture of a TC15 with a Mojo effect loop installed.
Attachment:
image.jpeg
image.jpeg [ 1.89 MiB | Viewed 16652 times ]

It comes on channel 2 just after the 220K divider.
Power comes via same pream filter stage as the PI via the white wire from the 22uf filter cap.
Green ground to preamp ground.
Shielded cables used and were grounded on PCB board
Split the connection and run the Send and Return coax between the 220K and coupling cap as per picture.

We found the Mojo loop, which uses carbon comp resistors, to be noisy but otherwise it worked very well. Let is know how your works out. The Ironspunds installation looks more complicated than the Mojo.

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PostPosted: Sat Nov 12, 2016 5:12 pm 
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Thanks Stephen! Your picture definitely helps! I see exactly where I need to insert the audio send and return.

Since the power section PCB is separated from the audio signal PCB (per Ironsounds recommendation), I might get my B+ from the 2nd 22uf power cap and ground to the 3 point power ground. But then again grounding might be best at the preamp because of the send/return coax wire ground will ultimately ground with the power section of the PCB. :hmmm:

I'll do a bit more reading up, which, is all part of the fun!

Hope to have a few more pics up in the next few days.

Thanks again!


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PostPosted: Sat Nov 12, 2016 5:41 pm 
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Wow! Beautiful build...


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PostPosted: Sun Nov 13, 2016 10:04 am 
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2x6L6 wrote:
Wow! Beautiful build...


Thanks! And kudos to your build thread... it has helped a TON, thanks!


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PostPosted: Tue Nov 15, 2016 1:00 pm 
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JRS wrote:
Since the power section PCB is separated from the audio signal PCB (per Ironsounds recommendation), I might get my B+ from the 2nd 22uf power cap and ground to the 3 point power ground. But then again grounding might be best at the preamp because of the send/return coax wire ground will ultimately ground with the power section of the PCB. .


Suggest that you round at Pre-amp end, both the PSU and shields & loop board.

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PostPosted: Tue Nov 15, 2016 4:26 pm 
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coco wrote:
Suggest that you round at Pre-amp end, both the PSU and shields & loop board.


Thanks!! Makes sense, thats what I was thinking.

Since I am grounding everything at the pre-amp ground, I'm thinking that it makes sense to get my power from the pre-amp 22uf cap, like you did with the mojo loop....keeping my power and ground from the same part of the circuit to reduce hum


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PostPosted: Sun Nov 27, 2016 1:47 pm 
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Had some fun this morning building the contour switch. 8) I switched in a different brand cap for each position - doubt it will make THAT much difference, but regardless, having some fun!

Found that slightly bending the contour switches eyelets sideways helped the PIN (1) EF86 wire easily slide through from eyelet 12 to 7.

From right to left: Mica, Mica, Orange Drop, Mallory, Jupiter, Sozo
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Backside
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Back of board
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Last edited by JRS on Mon Nov 28, 2016 12:45 am, edited 1 time in total.

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PostPosted: Sun Nov 27, 2016 11:57 pm 
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Did all I could do for tonight.

Figured out a little trick... if you accidentally melt a little bit of the wire's PVC, you can bandaid it with a small piece of shrink tubing. It tightens everything back down nicely.

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Also found a new use for an unused fishing tackle tray.

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PostPosted: Mon Nov 28, 2016 12:09 am 
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Nice work on the amp. The cabinet and the wiring look great.

The Contour control is a busy little switch to wire, all right. Yes, the brand of capacitor won't make much difference. The switch can be pretty subtle from one click to the next, but you should find each position has an effect on the tone.

Nice box joint jig you have for your router table, too. I assume you made it yourself. I have made a few but I finally broke down last week and bought an Incra Ibox.

Please keep us informed on how the effects loop works out.


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PostPosted: Mon Nov 28, 2016 9:50 am 
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Thanks! Great to be living in the age of google and youtube.

I'm not going to lie... getting that router jig perfect was a TON of trial and error! Its crazy how much difference 1/64th of an inch makes, haha


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PostPosted: Mon Nov 28, 2016 11:59 pm 
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It's crazier than that. Four or five thousandths of an inch means the difference between box joints that fit nicely together and those that are too tight or too loose. That's why home built jigs are so hard to get set properly.

I like my new Incra box joint jig. Its positioning accuracy is adjustable to the nearest 1/1000".


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PostPosted: Fri Dec 02, 2016 3:25 am 
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No wonder it took me so long to get that jig to work perfectly, haha!

I'll definitely have to check out that Incra box joint jig.


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PostPosted: Fri Dec 02, 2016 3:28 am 
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Made some headway on the rest of the board, V1 and V2.

Wondering if the bare wire on the 68k grid resistors will bring any noticeable noise?

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PostPosted: Fri Dec 02, 2016 10:31 am 
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Looks good. You want the 68k resistors close to the grid pins on the tube sockets for minimum noise and RF pickup. The bare wire at the other ends where they join the terminal strips is OK. You could slip some insulation over them if you want, but there won't be any other wires crossing over them.


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PostPosted: Sat Dec 03, 2016 3:58 am 
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Thanks Mitch!

Made some more progress tonight. Finished the tube socket wiring, boost switch, impedance switch and crunch/munch. The crunch/munch switch was a bit tough to get everything tight and neat.

I also wired up the power section of the ironsounds fx loop and then ran the ground/30v in a braid under the impedance switch and behind all the wires. I managed not to touch anything but it definitely is tight.

I'm wondering if the power/ground wires from the PCB are too close to everything and might cause some hum/noise. Guess we'll see. :hmmm:

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PostPosted: Sun Dec 04, 2016 4:28 am 
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Gulp...... I think.. I'm done....

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