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 Post subject: Spitfire Too Brittle
PostPosted: Wed Jul 06, 2005 10:11 am 
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Does anyone have some favorite mods for reducing the ice pick brightness of the Spitfire? I think I might increase the coupling caps in the PI to .022uF and look at some other things, but I am wondering if there is anything you Spitfire guys do as standard mods to help with this.

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PostPosted: Wed Jul 06, 2005 9:16 pm 
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You can put in a DC-30 style high cut control (schematic at http://theoctave.home.comcast.net/dc30_fact_color.gif ) I did this in my Lightning, but I don't find that I really need it. Might be more useful in a Spitfire.

Daz put a few Sozos in his Spitfire and was very happy with the result. He's probably around here somewhere and might be able to give you more details.

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PostPosted: Thu Jul 07, 2005 12:31 pm 
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S2, what kind of coupling caps are you using? Are they Orange Drops by any chance???


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PostPosted: Thu Jul 07, 2005 2:04 pm 
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Nope. They're Mallorys. I ended up junking the tone stack and putting something else in there. I also bumped a few caps here and there to get a little more low end. It's all good now.

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PostPosted: Fri Jul 08, 2005 9:11 pm 
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Hey, I have 2 different layouts for the Spit. One shows a 180pF bright cap on the volume pot and the other does not. Does anyone know which is correct? Knowing Matchless, I imagine it is the one with the cap, but...

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PostPosted: Fri Jul 08, 2005 9:42 pm 
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I think that cap is omitted. As I recall, it was not on some of the interior shots I have seen (oh, but that was a Lightning)

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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Sat Jul 09, 2005 8:25 am 
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coco wrote:
I think that cap is omitted. As I recall, it was not on some of the interior shots I have seen (oh, but that was a Lightning)


Well, that was immensely helpful, Stephen! :roll:

Where's Maccabbe when I need him?!

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PostPosted: Sun Jul 10, 2005 7:36 pm 
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In the end, this is what I figured out...

The tone pot really needs to be a 250K-L. At 1M, it doesn't even start to roll off the highs until you have it turned all the way down past 9:00. Then it rolls them off too quickly. Since a 1M pot is giving me range on only 1/4 the pot, I figured I should go with 1/4 the value on the pot to open it up. A 200K-L would be just right. Now the highs start to roll off at 3:00 with a 250K-L.

That makes me wonder if the drawings are right on this amp since everyone complains about Spits being overly bright and I can't imagine Matchless really got that wrong.

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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Sun Jul 10, 2005 8:56 pm 
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s2 wrote:
coco wrote:
I think that cap is omitted. As I recall, it was not on some of the interior shots I have seen (oh, but that was a Lightning)


Well, that was immensely helpful, Stephen! :roll:

Where's Maccabbe when I need him?!


There are many people that have done reviews at HC on the Spitfire (and Lightning) where they say they are very bright amps. Most of them use Single coil Fender (or Fender-style guitars). They have complained that the Bright Cap needs to be put on a Switch or removed. When I do a Thunderbolt 9 for a customer, I always ask what are their main axes and then use either use a 250 or 500 Brite Cap, or none at all if they are planning on using a very Bright Speaker such as the Greenback or Celestion Blue.

I always use Orange Drop 715P Coupling and Pre Caps as I find the Mallory 150s too spikey in Spitfire/T-bolts.

I have never had to downsize the Tone Pot to get a good swing on it. In fact, the T-bolt Tone Control doesn't even start getting alot of High End until about 3 O'Clock with a Hbucker equipted axe or 12 O'Clock with a Fender-style Single Coil. That being said, I usually run the Tone Control at between 11 and 1 O'Clock with all my Hbucker equipted axes. Again, I think this is because of the use of 715P Caps instead of 150 Caps.

CR ><>

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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Sun Jul 10, 2005 9:49 pm 
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To be fair, I should say it sounds awesome with my LP. This customer is a Tele player, though, and it was very brittle with a Tele.

I agree with you about putting the bright cap on a switch. It could be a very good mod (if only I had ordered a push-pull pot). Also, I built it without a MV, which likely makes a huge difference in the way it sounds since you can roll the volume control up to 6 or 8 to keep the bright cap under control and use your guitar's volume to control the gain. I discovered that is the secret to keeping my Lightning in check.

Anywho, it is solved now...

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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Wed Jul 13, 2005 12:14 pm 
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My SF sounds perfect with my guitars. (but they are heavy and use humbuckers...)

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