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mmcginn
PostPosted: Sat Sep 12, 2015 5:45 pm 
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mitch m wrote:
Check the secondary connections to the impedance selector and the speaker jacks.
Thanks, I'll check that.

The good news is that there is sound, but restricted to "Tude" mode, so I'll check the "Tweed" side of the circuit.

It's getting closer. It's a great experience!
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mitch m
PostPosted: Sun Sep 13, 2015 12:29 am 
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You are getting closer to a successful build all the time. The major problem is fixed. Probably just minor wiring issues to fix now. Glad you are still positive with the amp building experience. It's not an overly complicated amp. You'll get it working!

As you proposed, check all the wiring associated with the "Tweed" side of the switch. Also check the switch itself with an ohm meter to make sure it works properly.
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mmcginn
PostPosted: Sun Sep 13, 2015 8:17 am 
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The switch itself is good. The problem was at the connection going to R7, which was touching the connection on the other side. It's sounding great now!

Updated 12AX7 measurements.

PREVIOUS
pin 6 = 152 VDC
pin 8 = 1.1 VDC

Current
pin 6 = 182 VDC
pin 8 = 1.5 VDC

Now to test min and max settings. That'll be the fun part of course since I'll be playing on it.

For me, this is a successful build. Having it work right off the bat would seemingly have be nice but it wouldn't have helped me learn anything about how it really works. Now I'm gaining an appreciation and can look forward to other projects, once this is completely done of course, including tweed on the cabinet.
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mitch m
PostPosted: Sun Sep 13, 2015 11:32 am 
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Congratulations!

Yes, it's nice when amps work the first time but then you don't learn anything about troubleshooting.

Hope you have fun playing it and good luck putting the tweed on your cabinet.
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AndrewMc
PostPosted: Thu Sep 17, 2015 7:30 pm 
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Awesome! Congrats man - hope you enjoy playing it now.
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coco
PostPosted: Fri Sep 18, 2015 7:44 pm 
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Excellent! Yes, you will have learned alot! Let us know if you need help explaining the Tweed process!

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gotie
PostPosted: Mon Sep 21, 2015 3:28 pm 
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Bravo!
Glad to see you completed your build with success at the end.
It helps to be patient and, besides, it's fun to learn how the Tramp works.
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mmcginn
PostPosted: Sun Nov 22, 2015 7:42 pm 
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UPDATE:

Although it was going for a awhile I ended up losing the Tweed circuit and it started humming.

I decided I needed some more hands-on help so scoured the forum and decided to PM kurtlives who agreed to get it working. He happened to be in the general area I visits, so it was a lucky coincidence.

There were an assortment of issues from loose connections and cold solder joints. He tightened up the hardware, (re)soldered where needed, and tidied up really well.

It really sounds great, and he also added a couple mods, allowing for support of additional tubes, and a footswitch for the pre-amp boost mod.

Hats off to kurtlives!
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kurtlives
PostPosted: Mon Nov 23, 2015 6:20 pm 
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Glad to your Tramp is working and sounding good again.

Let us know how you like that PAB mod.

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coco
PostPosted: Sat Nov 28, 2015 9:55 am 
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Well done kurtlives !! If anyone can do it, he can!!

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jcny
PostPosted: Mon Jul 23, 2018 5:30 am 
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SPAM!!
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richardjews
PostPosted: Mon Dec 24, 2018 6:51 am 
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mmcginn wrote:
AndrewMc wrote:
1) Set your meter AC. Measure across the rectifier pins. This is where the twisted red wires from the transformer attach to the board, just above and to the right of the MOSFET - where the diodes are. Make sure your meter can handle 600+ volts. Again, make sure it is set to AC. Put the black probe on one of the eyelets, the red probe on the other eyelet (amp has to be on of course). You should have close to 630VAC here.

333VAC for both.
AndrewMc wrote:
If you put the red probe on one of these eyelets and the black probe to ground, you should have in the neighbourhood of 300-315VAC. http://www.hardmenstore.com/extenze-review/

315VAC for both.
AndrewMc wrote:
2) Set your meter to DC. Now measure across the 50uF capacitors. With the VRM all the way up you should have 400V. With the VRM all the way down you will have substantially less. If you have alligator clips on your meter (with the amp off) you can clip the black lead to the negative side and the red lead to the positive side. Then turn the amp on, to idle. Voltage should be fairly low. Slowly turn up the VRM and you can actually watch the voltage rise on your meter

Cap 1 VRM idle: 25DCV
Cap 1 VRM max: 285DCV
Cap 2 VRM idle: 463DCV
Cap 2 VRM max: 460DCV
AndrewMc wrote:
3) Keep the meter set to DC. Measure at the pre-amp side. Pin 6 should have 191 volts, pin 1 should have 203 volts (or close to those numbers). Hold your black probe to the pre-amp ground and the red probe to pin 1 or pin 6 depending on which you are testing

Both pins 288
AndrewMc wrote:
You can check your heater voltages (meter set to AC) at pins 7 & 2 on the power tube side and pins 4 & 9 on the pre-amp side. If I remember correctly, mine were around 6.7V. The manual says they are to be 6.3V.

Pin 7&2: 3.6V
Pin 4&9: 3.6V
AndrewMc wrote:
Actually, then very first thing you should do is check the main voltage coming into the amp. Hold your black lead to ground and the red lead where the wire connects to the fuse holder (or on the 'power' pot where the wire attaches that comes from the fuse holder).

.167V

I see there is a little bit of fixin to do!


These was just a little problem of voltage you can fix it from amp circuit :bugeye:
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