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PostPosted: Wed Aug 07, 2019 3:33 am 
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Hi guys!
I am new inhere, and have just finish my first tube amp. I started with the Triton kit, and I am amazed by the sound, and not least how quiet it runs without a signal. No hum or whining.
I have some question about voltage. My Amp Runs 6L6 (10W) Tubes and is supplied with 240V AC mains voltage.

According to the Triton voltage map I measure on V1: 22v on pin 6 and 142V on pin 8 against chassis. I also measure 19V on pin 6 and 128V on pin 8. Measurements on V2 show pin 3 350V pin 4 292V and pin 8 24V. Is such a big deviation ok. If this is wrong, does anyone have any suggestions?

Could this be caused in what I see is a difference between the layout drawing and the manual ver.1.23 page 43 regarding cabling of the Bias switch? I wounder if one is right, then the other has to be wrong. I have used the one on te layot. Please let me know.

I will mention that all the measurements in the startup procedure in the manual were measured correct before the tubes were installed 5V AC, &, 3V AC and 400V DC. As mentioned earlier, the amplifier runs just fine. Great sound and no noise. Maybe a little loss of volume?

Happy to here from one of you experienced guys


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PostPosted: Wed Aug 07, 2019 8:40 am 
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The posted voltages are for 6V6 tubes so yours will be off a bit. It will drop the votage down a bit.
We dont have 6L6 voltages published. That os somethng we need to do. If you like it, it is good.

As for the bais switch, I think they both accomplish the same thing. They change the power cathode resistance. Confirm you are running in 6L6 mode. (bias resistors in parallel).

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PostPosted: Thu Aug 08, 2019 1:42 am 
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Thanks for your reply Stephen! Seems like a good explanation. I have followed your Builder's Guide carefully step by step and I most have forgot for a moment that I was building the 10W version. I now feel that I have passed the first grade in the tube amp builders school, and look forward to the next level.


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PostPosted: Thu Aug 08, 2019 12:51 pm 
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Hopefully you’ll find one of our amplifiers that you want to try next

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PostPosted: Sat Sep 07, 2019 1:08 pm 
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Hi!
As I said earlier in this post, I ‘m building up my experience with tubes. In that case I like to have yours opinion on this. Is it normal for the 6L6 tube to become that sooty after apr. 8-10 hours playing? Please have look at the picture.

Thanks a lot for replying :D


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PostPosted: Sat Sep 07, 2019 5:05 pm 
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Before you get too concerned, is it red-plating? Take voltage measurements and calculate the power the tube is dissipating to make sure it's within limits. Use one of the many on-line calculators to test your measurements.

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PostPosted: Sun Sep 08, 2019 3:07 am 
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Thanks for your quick replay. I’m not sure I understand the question about the “red plating” What means that? I’ll check the measurements when I get home.

Tlon


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PostPosted: Sun Sep 08, 2019 8:31 am 
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Red plating means that the plates inside the tube get red-hot.

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PostPosted: Thu Sep 12, 2019 12:37 pm 
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There was no sign of “red plating” in the tubes after two hour of playing. Only the thin wires in the center of the tube was glowing. I did a new measurement, and all the voltages was nearly close to the value written in the first post in this topic. Butt then the “catastrophe” appeared. I slipped on the 4. Lug on the 6L6 socket an made a short connection between lug 4 and lug 3. There was a big sound, and after that the amp become bad. Here is the problem. The volume pot don’t react like it should, loss of volume, and “sparkling” noise, and It will not go to cero. I have changed the power tube, but no reaction. All the voltage measurements is the same as before. Maybe I have blown the output transformer? Please give me some advices for further troubleshooting.
(Hope you understand my English)

Tlon


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PostPosted: Thu Sep 12, 2019 1:48 pm 
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Your English is good enough.

It is unlikely that your output transformer is damaged. Sounds like you shorted high voltage to pin 5 and fried the volume control. Disconnect the volume control and measure the resistance from the middle terminal to the outer ones as you rotate the shaft. If the readings do not go smoothly from 0 to about 1Meg, or you do not measure about 1Meg across the two outer terminals, replace the volume control.


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PostPosted: Fri Sep 13, 2019 12:43 pm 
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You have right. I temporary putted in another 1Meg pot at the volum control, and Yes!!!!!! The amp is back. I think I e-mail Stephen for a new on, and ask him to put in a new pot for the tone as well. Because I also lost the tone-control. Happy to have you experience people out there for backup. Thanks a lot!! :D :D

Tlon


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PostPosted: Fri Sep 13, 2019 5:13 pm 
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We can send you the replacement parts. Good learning!

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PostPosted: Sat Sep 28, 2019 12:16 pm 
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The parts arrived, and with the new pots installed, the amp is back to normal again.

Here is a new question for you experienced people out there: I have got some “flabby bass” mostly when I am playing my Les Paul. One tips is to lower th value of the coupling caps a bit. I see two of this in the circuit C1 and C3. Both 022uf. Who is the one to be changed? And will 0.01uf causing large loss of bass?

Thanks!


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